WINTER CARE FOR YOUR BACKYARD FLOCK
N. Hreha
First time flock owners have a lot of questions about navigating the winter months with their "girls".
Most folks have started their flock in the spring or summer months. By now they have "fallen in love" with these productive creatures and have enjoyed every moment of their antics, their behaviors and their chatter.
So of course when anticipating the cold weather that's sure to find us in Sussex County, owners want to know the do's and don'ts that will keep their girls healthy and happy through the winter months.
We've put together some of the most common mistakes and best practices that may surprise you. Working in consultation with animal health care providers and local farmers we've gleaned the top tips from their customers' most frequently asked questions. If you have additional questions or if a medical emergency arises seek professional advice from your local breeder/farmer or your veterinarian. (There are veterinary hospitals in the Sussex County area whose staff is experienced in treating poultry.)
Tip #1 People and Chickens are built differently and handle cold weather in different ways.
Sounds like common sense doesn't it? But we as humans have a tendency to project our own experience with our household pets onto livestock. Chickens are well equipped to handle cold weather temperatures. Those beautiful feathers provide wonderful insulation that maintains body heat. You'll often see the birds "fluff themselves" as a way to regulate their body temperature. This is normal in winter weather. Birds will also huddle close when roosting which also helps them to stay warm. (Who doesn't like a good cuddle on a cold winter night!) When fully feathered layer hens do not need a supplemental heat source. NO HEAT LAMP or HEAT SOURCE is needed in the chicken coop. As a matter of fact adding a heat source presents a real danger of creating an environment where bacteria can prosper not to mention the potential for fire or damage to the birds should they come in contact with the heat lamp. DO NOT USE HEAT LAMPS in the coop.
Tip #2 Cold feet aren't fun!
Life is not fun when your feet are cold. When temps drop and the ground freezes your girls will be more inclined to enjoy the crisp winter air if there is a place to get off the cold ground. Inside the coop the girls will enjoy a bedding of wood shavings they can scratch through and a roosting perch where they can huddle together.
** A common mistake people make is thinking MORE IS MORE...in fact deep layers of shavings or adding straw or hay to the coop floor is an invitation to bacterial growth that can make the girls sick.** Only bedding material (low dust) should be used in the coop but you can scatter light layers of straw or hay on the ground in the outdoor run if you'd like.Also adding a roosting perch in your outdoor run will give the girls an alternative to walking on the cold ground. A roosting perch doesn't need to be elaborate (or expensive). Using natural branch material at varying heights is a very cost effective, easy to replace addition to your outdoor run and can be left in place all year long.
Tip#3 Water
As you already know chickens like all livestock need a steady supply of clean water daily. Freezing temps can disrupt their food/water ratio and in the case of an animal with a high metabolism, this can create serious health problems. There are several varieties of water containers you can choose from and the heaters have come a long way! Some folks choose an enclosed metal watering container and use a heater base. Others choose a nipple watering system with the ability to add a drop in heating donut (similar to a bird bath heater). Both are efficient, however, I prefer the translucent nipple watering container with a drop in donut heater because of cleanliness and because of the ability to visibly see if the water needs to be refilled. The drop in donut is temperature sensitive and will turn on and off as needed to keep the water in a liquid state. (Poultry watering equipment and heaters are available at Brodhecker Farm in Newton). **Waterers should NOT be kept in the coop. Remember, MOISTURE promotes bacterial growth. **
Tip #4 Seeing the light
A hen's ability to produce an egg per day relies on both sound nutrition and light. Though we may not notice subtle increases or decreases in daylight on a daily basis, our hens do! Adding the correct spectrum of consistent lighting to your coop benefits your hens in important ways.
Chickens detect light differently than humans because of the extra photoreceptors in their pineal and hypothalamus glands.
Their response to light controls their circadian rhythm, the 24 hour cycle of the bird's hormonal cycle and behavior. But not all light is created equally!
Red light stimulates egg production in poultry. Birds exposed to a red light spectrum vs a blue, green or white light have higher egg production because the red light is able to penetrate the skull to stimulate the extra photo receptors which then stimulate egg production. Red light at around 650 nm is able to penetrate the skull and brain with more efficiency than blue, green or yellow orange light and as stated, increases egg production. This doesn't mean adding red light alone to your coop is the right choice. And some researchers suggest that red light alone stimulates aggression in hens.
LED lights are believed to deliver better results in laying hens than incandescent lighting and overall laying hens benefit from lighting with a red spectrum3 (2700K-3000K).
TIMING IS EVERYTHING:
Layer hens benefit from a standard level of light for 16 hours per day year round especially when food is located in the coop and even in the peak of summer when days are at their longest length. Whether sunny summer days or Jersey Gray ones, having lighting partnered with the feeding station encourages the hens to receive the food nutrition they need to produce and stay healthy.
Tip#5 Should I lock the girls in for the night?
The forecast is calling for snow and you're wondering if you should lock the girls in for the night...the short answer is "no". With few extreme weather exceptions your girls will fare well if your coop is protected from wind chill and moisture. In addition, if you are keeping the watering station outdoors you will be limiting their access to water by locking them in. Remember, chickens generally become active earlier than people do -especially on a winter weekend morning! The coop does not need to be insulated-simply free of draft especially by the nesting boxes.
Tip #6 Egg Collection
It's always wise to collect your eggs shortly after the girls are done laying. This practice keeps eggs clean, discourages shell picking and discourages other creatures from taking your breakfast. The freezing temperature of eggs is around 32degrees F. At that temperature uncollected eggs will begin freezing in about three to four hours. Once the egg freezes it is generally advised that it is discarded because of the potential for bacteria to enter the egg through hairline or significant cracks in the shell. Because of WHERE the egg is produced from the possibility of bacterial contamination exists. When the egg warms bacteria can enter the nutrient rich environment of the egg through cracks in the shell regardless of the size of the crack. Be mindful of this if your eggs have been out in the cold long enough to freeze.
Of course you can always add more bedding to the nest itself which will help insulate the egg and extend the window of opportunity for collection. Always be sure the nesting box material is clean and changed frequently. Another tip is to stack straw or hay bales OUTSIDE of the coop near the nesting boxes. This will provide a buffer from chilly winds and help in keeping the eggs insulated. If your hens don't use the nesting boxes but prefer to lay in a corner of the coop you can always add additional bedding material to that section but again, make sure you are cleaning up frequently.
Tip #7 Fattening up for Winter
Many folks have asked if their birds should be "fattened up" for winter weather. The short answer is NO. Steady caloric and nutritional intake makes for healthy and productive birds. Over feeding your hens causes significant health issues as is the case with any of our pets. Stay consistent in your feeding habits, choose a well balanced feed that provides the nutrients, calcium, micro nutrients she needs. REMEMBER: Snacks are fun but if they take the place of a well balanced feed feather quality, egg quality and production and overall health will suffer.
BREEDS THAT DO GREAT IN COLD WEATHER AND ARE AVAILABLE LOCALLY
While there are many breeds of hen not all are equipped to do well in cold weather climates. However in general chickens do much better with winter chill than extreme heat. Below are a few of the breeds known for their adaptability, generally great disposition and high level of production. **Not all breeds are represented here but the following are a few favorites of those we've polled**
**The following breeds are considered "dual breeds" meaning they are strong egg layers and can be raised as meat birds. The males finish off in the six to eight pound range**
RHODE ISLAND RED and Red Sex Links: The breed was developed in the late 1800's and became the state bird of Rhode Island. The reddish brown feathers, docile disposition and excellent production of brown eggs make this one of the favorite "hearty girls" in our poll.
BARRED ROCK: This is another New England original and is also a favorite because of the striking feather pattern, great egg production and overall disposition.
WELSOMMER: This layer of brown speckled eggs originated in the Netherlands and first came to the US in the 1920's. Though it is a bit slower to mature, this breed is hearty and adapts well to winter weather.
WYANDOTTE: These birds have beautiful feather patterns and are generally considered to be very equipped for extreme cold weather with minimal problems with frostbite due to the size and shape of their comb. They are brown egg layers though slightly less productive than the breeds mentioned above. They have a docile and calm disposition but some keepers report that these birds are more aloof with humans than other breeds.
